Q: What did this last application do for the lawn? Will this application take care of the weeds/crabgrass?
A: Here’s a quick rundown of the applications available from American Turf Technicians and when they are applied:
First Application, Early Spring. This application is a granular, Nitrogen based fertilizer that also contains a pre-emergent to prevent crabgrass from germinating. The Fertilizer give the grass a boost to promote a good spring “green-up”.
Second Application, Late Spring. This application is a liquid, Nitrogen based fertilizer that also contains a weed control agent to eliminate any broadleaf weeds that have sprouted so far. Just as before the fertilizer feeds the growth of the grass.
Third Application, Early Summer. This application is a liquid, Nitrogen and Potash based fertilizer that also contains a weed control agent.
Fourth Application, Late Summer. This application is a liquid potassium based fertilizer with an insect control agent..
Fifth Application, Early Fall. This application is a liquid, Nitrogen based fertilizer that also contains a weed control agent. A second round of weeds will try to sprout in early fall, this application controls them while feeding the lawn.
Sixth Application, Late Fall. This application is a double rate, slow release granular fertilizer. While the other applications feed the lawn for 4-6 weeks, this application will release nutrients slowly over 12-16 weeks. This is done late because when a dormant lawn receives nutrients it will put them in to strengthening the root system rather than growing the shoots.
Q: How often should I water? How long should I water when I do? What time of day should I water? Can I overwater a lawn?
A: Water is lost all year due to drainage, evaporation and, of course, the lawn using the water as a nutrient. It is sometimes necessary to provide supplemental hydration to avoid drought stress.
Frequency: Frequent lawn watering often encourages shallow rooting and may predispose the lawn to increased disease and greater susceptibility to stress injury. Watering deeply and less frequently provides for improved turf growth and increased water conservation compared to light, frequent watering. A deep watering twice a week is usually sufficient.
Amount: When irrigation becomes necessary, wet the soil to a minimum depth of 4 to 6 inches. This amount of water varies with soil texture, but approximately 1 inch of water should thoroughly wet most soils to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Placing several empty cans (tuna or cat food cans work well) under the sprinkler allows you to determine when an appropriate amount of water has been applied.
Timing: Irrigation can be applied at any time during the day or night. Midday watering is also relatively inefficient due to substantial evaporation losses. Night watering provides the greatest risk of a fungus or disease. Very early morning watering, before dew has dried, is the best plan, because it provides for efficient use of water (low evaporation) and does not contribute to disease.
Q: How often should I mow? What height should I set my deck at? Should I bag my clippings? Should I be changing the direction that I mow in?
A: While fertilization and watering are vital in maintaining a beautiful lawn, proper mowing practices also play a large part in healthy turf.
Frequency: How fast a lawn grows determines how frequently it requires mowing. In order to avoid stressing turf, no more than one third of existing shoot growth should be removed at any one mowing. If a lawn grows excessively high for some reason, the mowing height should be gradually reduced to the proper height over a span of several mowings rather than all at once. This will minimize excessive buildup of clippings as well as prevent shock to the plant which may occur when the grass is severely defoliated after being allowed to grow too high.
Height: Although a closely-cut lawn can be successfully maintained, its shorter root system will result in a need for more frequent watering and fertilization to compensate for its reduced ability to obtain water and nutrients from the soil. It is therefore desirable to maintain your lawn at the highest cutting height acceptable for its intended use and aesthetic value. A cutting height of 2 to 3 inches is best for most lawns.
Clippings: Unless an excessive amount of clippings remain on the lawn following mowing (because of infrequent mowing), there is no need to remove clippings by bagging or raking. In fact, clippings are a valuable source of nutrients. Clippings returned to a lawn will return nitrogen and other nutrients to your lawn over the course of a season. Contrary to popular belief, returning clippings to the lawn does not normally contribute to increased thatch formation. Clippings are composed primarily of easily degradable compounds which break down rapidly and do not accumulate.
Mowing Direction: The direction of mowing should be varied with each mowing in order to promote upright shoot growth. The formation of a horizontal growth orientation (grain) can be minimized if the lawn is mown at right angles on alternate mowings.
If you have any other lawn care related questions, feel free to email them to us at: firstname.lastname@example.org
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